Rob is in Africa.

1.21.2006

Affirmative Action?

Well, my brother keeps riding me to post new entries despite my simple routine, so I will attempt to cater to his whims. I've written about my daily life here, and covered some of the more major events as far as school goes and whatnot, but I suppose that I've somewhat ignored the rest of my experience here. How the Tanzanians outside of my school setting live and breathe, how I relate to them, cultural differences and so on. Well, a few years ago I took a short month-long vacation to Japan. Prior to departing, I spent a decent amount of time studying up on customs and so on, in order to not commit any drastic mistakes (such as shaking hands with your left here...look it up). In my inquiries, I found many testaments to the disparation that occured between the Japanese people and the "gaijin," also known as me. From reading these accounts, I had fully expected to be ogled, asked to be in pictures, converse in English, and a myriad of other activities. Well, somewhat to my disappointment this did not happen, in the least. Once, when I was on a small local train near a small local village near the larger (and wonderful) village of Nara, two small children were amazed by my presence, and came over to see if I was real. I managed to mangle a Japanese greeting and picked one up and swung him around. They were pretty happy about that. But seriously, other than that I felt like I was just another person, especially in Tokyo.
I suppose you can see where I am headed with this... Anyway, before coming here to Tanzania, I didn't study about customs (Peace Corps gives us plenty of in-country instruction on all subjects), and I didn't hear any stories of alienation or recognition of racial difference. In fact, perhaps due to my Japanese experience, I assumed that white folks were just another part of life here and that Tanzanians were no longer impacted by our presence. Not so. The walk from Ihungo Secondary to Bukoba town takes me through several miles of small, rural homesteads and pseudo-villages. Well, I didn't hear the word gaijin once when I was in Japan, but let me say that its Swahili equivalent, "mzungu," has become omnipresent. I have become so attuned to this word that I can pick it out when a small child tries to yell to me from a quarter mile away. Which happens for the entirety of the walk. "Mzungu! Mzungu!" Once the chant begins, all the children running about these ruralities (and like I said, there are many, many children here) pick it up, and it becomes my mantra. Occasionally, on the more celebrant days, a horde of children will form a party behind me, clapping their hands with each successive chant. This continues, with varying frequency, everywhere here. Heads turn, and the "Hey look, a white guy!" shouts begin. It is a strange feeling, to be so obviously in the minority, and have it thrown in my face constantly.
What does all this attention mean? Well, for one, I cannot be discreet. When I'm around, people know it. Some days I'll hear yells from behind houses, from bathrooms, from god-knows-where. Some fellow going about his business heard the chant and picked it up, despite having no idea who he is yelling at. So discretion is out the window, get used to being noticed. Alright, I've squared myself with that one. What about favors? Its known, by us and the Tanzanians, the polarization in money between our countries. So this attention attracts some particularly needy or sometimes lazy folks who try soliciting us for any number of things. Requests either myself or Aaron have received range from "Give me your sugar to help my sore teeth" to "Take to to America with you," and more generally are concerning our spare change. That problem is a bit harder to handle than all the shouts. What to do...? I know that I can afford, easily afford, to toss a few shillings the way of that guy who's got polio and can't walk. But then what? Everytime he sees me, he expects the same treatment, and even extrapolates that behavior to all Americans. We all have extra money, and should help out those in more dire need, and if we don't, well that's because we are bad people. This is not my line of thought, but its one I've been introduced to. What do you think? I am polite and greet people, but thats where it ends for now. The poverty level is too high for me to make any difference greater than the one I am attempting to make by teaching.
Before you think, "That must be terrible to not have any privacy once you leave your house," or some such thought, I must defend the Tanzanians. One well-placed greeting will cause the multitude of chanting children to erupt into joy that the white man knows how to say hi. A smile is always, always matched with a smile the same size, if not bigger. So on most days, not only is the "mzungu" song tolerated, I take it with a smile. There is no insult intended, they are just happy and surprised to see me, the legendary white beast. Its a strange welcome, but an earnest, if a bit overdone. I'll try to remain good-humored about it (some foreigners take it as the most wicked of insults and end up bitter and resentful) and greet stares with smiles, yells with hellos.

9 Comments:

  • At 1/21/2006 10:02 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    All you Peace Corp Jerky's should
    start telling the kids "Slayer" is how you say "Mzungu" in english. That a walk through town woul be like every concert you go to.

     
  • At 1/22/2006 10:03 AM, Blogger PsychOphObic said…

    I think that we tend to be very sensitive to how others view us when we happen to be the minority in the area. However, when we are back in our own country and when we are the majority, we tend to overlook the discrimination the minorities may feel. I was very sensitive to how the Japanese treat me when I, an Asian looking like them, starts speaking to them in fluent english. And also, how they treat those who do not look like them, for instance the Americans, starts speaking to them in fluent Japanese.

     
  • At 1/22/2006 8:11 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Rob, I came upon your blog while doing some peace corps research. I will be leaving for Africa in mid April for NGO Development w/ the Peace Corps (not sure which country yet). Know anyone around there doing NGO Development? Any books you'd recommend?
    Take care,
    Kristin

     
  • At 1/24/2006 12:14 AM, Blogger Rob said…

    lance- thats an awesome idea. i already convinced my classes to greet me every morning by saying "what's crackin, teach?" rather than "good morning sir". i suppose whitesnake isn't a huge leap from there....
    mr. phobic- yeah, its easy to not be concerned with the minority when one is in the majority. its surprising how much of a difference just being able to say simple phrases makes in integration, too. the tanzanians always tell me they appreciate how hard i am trying to speak their language, even if i sound like a fool in the process. i suppose that effort at integration is what drives a lot of the smiles...
    kristin- i just got here about a month ago, so i haven't spent too much time with the NGO's. however, as you know, peace corps is quite gung-ho about collaboration with them. so i will consult the volunteer i replaced and see what advice she has. i know that in each country, and even each region or district, there are many individual NGOs which cater to that regions needs. so i suppose it largely depends on where you go...

     
  • At 1/24/2006 12:32 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Hey-
    I have a couple of random things to comment on:
    - how do you BAKE a cake with a hot plate? I'm very impressed- sounds like a lot of work.
    - good work insisting on being greeted by "whats crackin" instead of "sir"
    - kali is adorable
    Hope you are doing well-

     
  • At 1/25/2006 7:56 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Lance, that's the best idea I've ever heard.

    Robert, do not do that.

    Questions from friends and me:
    How's the daily routine at your newish home? Everyone still evangelizing up the place? Do you use the Chuck Norris Grip for your bathroom duties or have you moved on to utilizing other things? How's classes? Are you making any strides with the kids like Sam Jackson in Coach Carter? Are there any sports?

     
  • At 1/25/2006 11:00 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Hey everyone out there, Rob can't do much with the school's single basketball that has the vinyl all peeling with the slick black stuff under it making it hard to get a grip, let alone make a basket. If anyone out there in cyberland wants to donate a basketball, to a good cause of course, his address is listed earlier in the blog. He has a pump, so send it deflated in a padded envelope...will still be expensive I'm thinking.
    Maybe I should turn this into a chain letter, ya know, if you send this to 60 of your friends (or enemies), with your name under mine and 10 basketballs to Rob you will immediately have money in the mail and live a long and happy life, if you don't you die tomorrow.
    Thanks

     
  • At 1/28/2006 2:01 AM, Blogger Rob said…

    Bri- You make a makeshift "oven" by suspending a smaller pot inside a bigger one, but not touching on the bottom. It works shockingly well. Banana bread, cakes, etc...yum. Nice to hear from you, did you get my letter back?
    Andrew- To answer your questions, in order: my routine is good/busy. No more evangelizing, but lots of RCs here. I don't know what you mean by chuck norris grip, but the answer is probably yes. Classes are good but hard, some days I have to teach something I only learned the night before. And yes, they kids are calling me Samuel L because of what a passioned difference I have made in their lives via sports.]

    And since anonymous (I think its Aaron, he's so sly) has posted, that solo basketball we have has exploded. It was doomed to only last so long, but one student was dribbling just a bit too hard on our rock/dirt court and we all heard the saddest sound: "psssssshh.....". Thats it for now, no more bball. Alas.

     
  • At 1/29/2006 7:23 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said…

    Rob~hey little bro! ;)
    Just came across your blog linked off of Russ and Lisa's site. It's been an incredibly fun afternoon, reading blogs from a number of you in your group, catching up, and recalling at least one instance of almost every major drama listed. You all sound great! The little things, well, truly do just become little things the longer you're there. You'll never get past the "mzungu" bit, but perhaps only be able to confuse the kids by making them think all wazungu are named Rob... but then, how would Aaron feel? Say hello to Jodi for me!
    Jessica

     

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